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Image from Han van Gool

Oostelijk Havengebied then and now

Nestled along the banks of the River IJ, you’ll find Amsterdam’s Oostelijk Havengebied (Eastern Docklands). It’s a neighbourhood that truly captures the spirit of the Dutch: born from the sea, forged by trade and eventually revived through creative repurposing. Once the maritime engine of the city, the Eastern Docklands has morphed into a hip riverside neighbourhood that takes plenty of inspiration from its past.

Pascale Kahn

Editorial Contributor at I amsterdam. Aussie, Dutch, writer, philosophy student, covering art and culture in and around the capital.

Then: a hub for trade and expansion

Oostelijk Havengebied Stadsarchief Amsterdam
Image from Stadsarchief Amsterdam

The history and identity of Amsterdam have always been deeply intertwined with the sea. By the late 19th century, as ships grew too large to be housed in the city’s original harbours, Amsterdam had to extend eastward. And so the Dutch did what they do best: they built a neighbourhood out of the ground, quite literally – with repurposed soil taken from the North Sea Canal. Built between 1874 and 1927, the Eastern Docklands emerged in the form of several narrow peninsulas, becoming the gateway for transatlantic shipping routes. For decades, ships from around the world docked here daily, facilitating a complex network of trade and movement. 

With the founding of the Dutch Shipbuilding Company (Nederlandsche Scheepsbouw Maatschappij), the area’s identity as a shipbuilding hub was solidified. By 1937, it was one of the largest and most innovative in the world. Later, these industries would expand and relocate to the larger terrain of the NDSM wharf just across the IJ.

Now: modern riverside splendour

By the late 20th century, Amsterdam began integrating the Docklands into city life. Rather than erasing its industrial past, the area leaned into its roots. A family-friendly neighbourhood emerged, home to a diverse group of Amsterdammers. Now and always, life in the Oostelijk Havengebied exists on and around the water. Residents and visitors stroll and cycle along the canals, swim at the bustling Marineterrein on sunny days, and gather at the host of waterfront cafes and breweries like the iconic Brouwerij ’t IJ. Riverside shipyards and warehouses have become epicentres for art and culture – take famed jazz hub Bimhuis, part of striking classical music venue Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ. Presiding over the harbour, you’ll find the National Maritime Museum, housed in a grand 17th-century building that once stored munitions for the navy, capturing over 500 years of Dutch seafaring history.

Away from the hustle and bustle of the centre, enjoy the residential calm of Java-eiland or KNSM-eiland, or escape the summer heat at nearby Funenpark. Stroll through the Czaar Peterstraat to explore its local boutiques and artisanal cafés. With plenty of modern places to grab lunch, try out Roest, an elegant space by the water, or the inventive bites at Vegan Sushi Bar. Storytelling and spoken word fill the evenings at the converted warehouse Mezrab, while inspiration and dialogue can be found at nearby Pakhuis de Zwijger’s cultural program.

Pascale Kahn

Editorial Contributor at I amsterdam. Aussie, Dutch, writer, philosophy student, covering art and culture in and around the capital.