Oud-Zuid then and now

Then: from quiet outpost to chic new quarter

Once little more than reclaimed polder land, in the 19th century, the city’s expansion turned this quiet piece of countryside into a refined neighbourhood for Amsterdam’s elite. As the city grew beyond its canal ring, visionary architects saw an opportunity to craft a new luxury development on Amsterdam’s southern edge. In 1864, a group of wealthy residents commissioned architect Jan David Zocher to design a public park just outside the city walls – Vondelpark was born. Named for Dutch poet and author Joost van den Vondel, the park represented a wave of creativity and innovation, turning this newly developed corner of the city into a cherished place to come together. The city’s wealthy residents flocked to the area, building elegant villas that nestled up against the borders of the Vondelpark. By 1878, the Vondelpark Pavilion had emerged, built as a clubhouse for Amsterdam’s bourgeoisie to mix and mingle freely.

With its uniquely dense concentration of cultural institutions, Oud-Zuid was defined by art and music from the get-go. In the 1880s, an architectural competition led to the creation of the Rijksmuseum, Pierre Cuypers’ neo-Gothic masterpiece. Just three years later, the Concertgebouw, globally recognised for its world-class acoustics, truly cemented Oud-Zuid’s reputation as a cultural hotspot. As the quarter expanded, new streets were named after composers, writers and artists – Johannes Vermeerstraat, anyone? – as a nod to the neighbourhood’s cultural spirit.

Now: a lush cultural nexus

Today, the crowning jewel of Oud-Zuid is the Museumplein, a square lined on every side with formidable art institutions. It’s here you’ll find the Museum Quarter, with the Rijksmuseum, Stedelijk, Van Gogh Museum and Moco Museum all presiding over the same green space. 

While the boutiques along the nearby P. C. Hooftstraat are geared towards the city’s wealthier clientele, don’t be fooled by Oud-Zuid’s finery. Despite its polish and cultural reputation, it remains a warm and approachable neighbourhood. Saturdays at Zuidermarkt are a staple for any Oud-Zuid local, when an intimate tree-lined square transforms into a market selling local produce and artisanal bites. The area, tucked away in the streets that criss-cross behind the Concertgebouw, retains a village-like feel with local gems like Wijnhandel Nan and Bâtard on the Koninginneweg, a location which boasts over 100 years of wine-selling history. Drink a fluitje (a small glass often used in Dutch bars) of beer at down-to-earth brown cafe Welling, which even hosts jazz nights, try refined French-inspired plates at Cafe Garcon, or stop by gourmet delicatessen Renzo’s for a sandwich and a great people-watching spot on those long summer afternoons.