A river (or two) runs through
We all know the Dutch are a sea-faring nation and of course, Amsterdam is famous for its canals, but how about exploring the river banks? For centuries, rivers have been the lifeblood of cities and every European metropolis has a suitable ode to its main water source - the Seine, the Rhine, the Tiber… Amsterdam is fortunate enough to have not one, but two major rivers – the Amstel – after which Amsterdam is named -and the IJ – which previously served as the harbour. Although you might not like to play “pooh sticks” down either of them, both are definitely a great place to while away your time in Amsterdam.
A river for all seasons
Whether winter or summer, there are plenty of activities along the banks of the rivers to suit all seasons. Perhaps the simplest pleasure of all – just sitting and watching the world float by! Spot tug boats, barges carrying coal, police boats, river cruisers, pleasure boats, schooners, hydrofoils and house boats (some even with the family car on top!)… incidentally this is a great (and free) way to entertain children of all ages.
The Star Ferry restaurant of the magnificent Muziekgebouw aan T’IJ is the perfect spot to watch the comings and goings of river life. Enjoy a hearty bowl of soup indoors in the winter – the panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows mean you won’t miss a thing. In the summer, sit out on the terrace and watch the hulking cruise-liners being delicately maneuvered out of the heart of the city towards the open sea.
Along the Amstel there are also loads of bars, cafes and brasseries to enjoy both in the summer and winter months. Head for The Amstelhaven - one of the largest floating terraces in Amsterdam. Tie up your boat, canoe or pedal boat outside and after dinner the tables are moved away to make way for the dance floor
Bridging the gap
Amsterdam has no fewer than 1,281 bridges. The Magere Brug (Skinny Bridge) is probably the best known. This picturesque wooden drawbridge was built across the Amstel in 1670 and thousands of fairy lights romantically illuminate it at night. Perfect for a moonlit stroll.
Close to the Magere Brug, and bridging cultures, is the recently opened Hermitage museum - the Dutch branch of the Hermitage in St. Petersburg (Russia). The magnificent 17th century Amstelhof building is 4000 m2, and the peaceful centuries-old courtyard is open to the public.
River walks
A great place for a walk along the Amstel is in the Weesperzijde. Soak up the bohemian atmosphere in this leafy avenue as you admire the grand houses, little artist’s galleries and stop off for drinks at De IJsbreker. For centuries, this has been a popular watering hole - ever since the Weeserzijde was actually the way to Weesp!
Along the IJ, explore the man-made KNSM and Java islands in the former eastern docklands. Previously deserted warehouses have given away to unique architectural housing projects that are definitely worth viewing. Loods 6, is the former warehouse and passenger terminal from where the famous Royal Dutch Steamboat Company (KNSM) used to ship passengers to the US. It has been transformed into a building for art and design, and the shops are perfect for browsing on a rainy day.
Beer belly
After a hard day’s work on the river, every man knows that beer is a great thirst-quencher. You’re in luck in Amsterdam, and it’s not a co-incidence that breweries are situated on rivers. Beer needs water, and it seems that the sweet waters of the Amstel are very good for making beer as it is here that you’ll find the world-renowned Heineken brewery. Although the main production plant has moved elsewhere, in the Heineken Experience you get to sample the beer at the end of the very-worthwhile tour.
Brouwerij 't IJ (literally “brewery on the IJ”) is not without its attractions either. Next door you’ll find a traditional Dutch windmill ‘De Gooyer’, the highest wooden windmill in the Netherlands. Not only that, but all 250,000 litres of Brouwerij ’t IJ’s beer is organic and is brewed on location. A lot of beer never makes it out of the brewery, because it is sold in the pub. What does leave the brewery finds its way to health food shops, off license chains or cafes all over the Netherlands.
High and dry
If you prefer a more refined brew altogether, then the palatial Amstel hotel might suit your tastes much better. Here you can have a wonderful high tea and you might see a celebrity or two hanging out here too… The tsar and Tsarina of Russia, England's Queen Elizabeth, Henry Kissinger, Walt Disney, Steven Spielberg, the Rolling Stones, U2 and Robbie Williams have all been guests. A wall of windows overlooks the river, showcasing an unending parade of boats.
If you’re pottering around the IJ, then the Kompaszaal (Compass Hall) in Loods 6 is the place to head for tea. This was previously the arrivals and departure hall of the Royal Dutch Steamboat Company (KNSM) and is still in its original state – the floor and mosaics are superb - and conjures up the grandeur of voyaging in the good old days.
Sail away
Talking of taking a trip, you might like to go on a mini-excursion too. Although the waiting room is not exactly grand, there is definitely excitement in flying up the river IJ in a high-speed hydrofoil. The fast flying ferry goes to Velsen-Zuid Pontplein, passing the port of Amsterdam along the way. From here you can take a bus to the wide, unspoiled beach at IJmuiden or even take your bike on the ferry to explore the local area.
A shorter trip, but no less attractive is to take a free ferry from behind Centraal Station (officially called Waterplein West) to Amsterdam North. The trip takes 10 minutes and here you’ll find the NDSM wharf, a former ship-building yard on the northern banks of the IJ. Spanning an area greater than 10 football fields, the NDSM wharf is now a center for underground culture in Amsterdam, housing amongst other things artists’ studios and workshops.
The IJ-Kantine is a cheerful and lively restaurant, often with live music and is a great place to dine with young children. This used to be the canteen for both the directors and ordinary labourers of the NDSM-wharf, but they had separate staircases so they wouldn’t have to meet each other!
In more of a sharing mood, Amsterdam North is now also the setting for the The Over het IJ Festival – a summer venue theatre festival held in early July. For eleven days you can watch more than twenty-five performances and enjoy delicious food and drinks at the festival site.
So, what are you waiting for? Whether on foot or by boat, in winter or summer, day or night, Amsterdam’s rivers offer the perfect setting for memorable moments!
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